Hoi An riverfront by night. Photograph: Alamy
Legend has it that the water used to combine the noodle dough must be drawn from the town’s Ba Le well, famed for its purity. Yet perhaps even more crucially, the noodles must be homemade and hand-cut.
For an authentic taste of cao lau head to Mermaid Restaurant, or learn how to make your own at the excellent Ms Vy’s cooking school (two-hour classes $25pp).
• For details of restaurant and cooking school, visit restaurant-hoian.com